PENNSYLVANIA F30a 50ft Flatcar and F30d TOFC Flatcar

Kitbuilding guide - F30d shown [for F30a grabs and stirrups are the same]

Drill holes at marked points for grab irons (8 total).

Fit grabs and stirrups. Inner leg of stirrup is folded on the half etched line and fits under the solebar, the outer leg fits outside the solebar.

Carefully drill holes in stake pocket near end on left side, both ends of car.

Drill holes in 4th stake pocket from end, both sides, both ends.

Two styles of etched brake wheel are supplied. Fit to wire and drill hole to suit in marked position one end of car.

Brake handwheels soldered to wire.

At bottom is the deck as supplied. Note the different sizes of the corner sections at the brake end, as can be seen in the
finished car. Remove the five sections from the fret by cutting with a sharp scalpel or similar.



Two lengths of the loading ramps are provided, the shorter, scale length, and a longer one for fitting in the lowered position
if couplings place the cars too far apart. To simulate the spring which supports the ramp, an MTL coupler spring may suffice.

There are three holes etched into the bottom of the loading ramps to enable the ramp to be made to pivot by fitting lift rings, or loops of wire. The short lengths of angle are for the ramp supports, and the longer ones fit into the side pockets alongside the trailers. handle with care, as these parts are delicate. The slotted tie down rails are supplied in two halves. They are very delicate, so handle carefully until glued in position. File the mating ends smooth so the join is not noticable. On the sample Alan Curtis just glued the tie-down loops on the deck, but for greater strength holes should be drilled and the legs inserted. Alternatively fine wire could be used, which would be much stronger.

For full prototype details on these cars visit Jerry Briton's Keystone Crossings

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